Barcelona

Vibrant, quirky, beautiful – the list of adjectives that apply to Barcelona is as varied as the city itself. Blessed with a fabulous setting on the shores of the sparkling Mediterranean overlooked by mountains, it has a rich cultural life to match, with enough museums, galleries and striking buildings to keep visitors to the city enchanted for weeks. Add to that a huge variety of shops and boutiques, some incredible local cuisine and several unexpected quiet corners, and it’s no surprise that this is one of Europe’s most popular spots. Even with so much to see and do, daytrippers can rest assured that in just a few hours, they can still sample some of the very best this bustling Catalan city has to offer.

ARCHITECT OF WONDER

Creator of many of Barcelona’s famous buildings, Antoni Gaudí is virtually the city’s patron saint – literally, after he was beatified in 2003. His fantastical modernist designs are breathtaking, nowhere more so than his astonishing cathedral, the Sagrada Família. This extraordinary and yet-to-be-finished creation, with its cluster of dizzying spires, is practically the symbol of the city and is justifiably at the top of every visitor’s must-see list.

The exterior is a riot of fabulous carvings and mosaics, well worth a lingering look, especially if you’ve had the foresight to tuck a pair of binoculars in your bag. Inside, make a beeline for the stairs or the lift up the bell tower; the views of the cathedral itself and the rest of the city are spectacular.

Gaudí turned his avant-garde hand to secular buildings as well as churches, most impressively at La Pedrera (The Stone Quarry), also known as Casa Milà, a block of flats like no other. Finished in 1910, every detail of its rippling stonework and twirling ironwork is enchanting – take the lift up to the rooftop for an inspiring wander among the surreal sculptures that adorn it.

A CULTURED HERITAGE

Gaudí’s masterpieces are the work of yesterday compared with the buildings of the atmospheric gothic quarter, the Barri Gotic, some of which are more than 700 years old. It’s easy to lose track of time in the tangle of winding alleyways and tiny squares, lined with graceful old buildings which are now home to enticing boutiques and cafés.

If you can tear yourself away, the area is dotted with ancient chapels and churches, none more impressive than the venerable cathedral, parts of which date from 1298, though the main façade is 19th century. Admire the soaring vaulting of the cool interior, take in the leafy calm of the cloister, and treat yourself to the view from the roof terrace.

Just east of the Barri Gotic is another historic quarter, La Ribera, home to the fascinating Museu Picasso. Founded with donations from the great man himself, its treasure trove of paintings and drawings focuses on the artist’s early years, which were spent in Barcelona. It’s an intriguing insight into the development of one of the 20th-century’s most famous painters, and when you’ve had your fill of art there are the buildings themselves – a graceful collection of medieval palaces – to explore.

LUNCH AT LEISURE

Thanks to adventurous chefs such as Ferràn Adrià, whose three-Michelin-starred El Bulli venue was voted the best restaurant in the world four years in a row, Catalan cuisine has become rather trendy of late. Fortunately, Barcelona has lots of more traditional and affordable places to enjoy a restorative lunch without breaking the bank.

Spaniards tend to linger over their midday meal – though they often won’t start it until around 2pm – so you may not want to forsake the sightseeing for the three-course menu del dia (set menu, and good value as wine and water are usually included). Happily, the city is also well supplied with tapas bars and cafés, where you can nibble on fresh fishy snacks or honey-soaked cakes. Head for the lanes of the Barri Gotic and La Ribera, especially the southern part known as El Born, or the snack bars in the city’s covered food markets, for the widest selection.

SHOP 'TIL YOU DROP

Few cities offer quite the variety of shopping delights as Barcelona. Food-lovers will love La Boqueria, a huge covered food market on the famous – and often very crowded traffic-free avenue Las Ramblas; it’s full of enticing sights and smells, and you can grab a quick bite, too.

Head for the quieter lanes on either side of Las Ramblas for fabulous one-off shops where you can buy everything from antiques to shoes. La Manual Alpargatera, for instance, specialises in espadrilles, not to mention natural-fibre hats and bags; Drap stocks everything to do with dolls, from tiny plates to elaborate mansions; and at Caelum, you can snap up produce from convents and monasteries throughout Spain, all beautifully packaged.

Placa de Catalunya is at the end of Las Ramblas, and is home to El Corte Inglés department store. This is where locals shop for everything from wine to clothes, and at reasonable prices; the leather goods department is particularly worth a visit. Beyond is Rambla de Catalunya, the less touristy continuation of Las Ramblas where the well-heeled shop for elegant homeware, shoes and clothes.

GREEN RETREATS

Rising above the city, Montjuic is a perfect retreat on a hot afternoon. This vast park perched on a hill, reached by funicular from just west of Las Ramblas, was the site of the 1992 Olympics, and the stadium is open to visitors. The area contains two of Barcelona’s most important attractions, the Fundació Joan Miró and the Museu Nacional d’Art de Catalunya, but its gardens deserve attention too. In the northeast, the tranquil Jardi Botanic is packed with plants that thrive in Mediterranean climates. From here, heading towards the ocean, is a string of other gardens: the Jardins de Joan Maragall, dotted with sculptures, the tucked-away Jardins Laribal, a terraced gem full of ornamental waterways and shady seats, and the pretty Jardins Mossen Cinto Verdaguer, devoted to bulbs and aquatic plants, especially water lilies.

If you prefer your greenery with a splash of azure, however, the gardens on Montjuic’s southeast tip give you splendid views over the sea, and the revamped harbour area. As you’d expect from the name, the Jardins de Miramar have breathtaking vistas at every turn, while the amazing cactus collection at the Jardins Mossen Costa I Llobera provides a surreal backdrop to those sea views. From nearby, there’s a cable car to whisk you down to the harbour.

A FINAL LOOK

The once-shabby old harbour Port Vell and the fisherman’s quarter of Barceloneta have been transformed over the past 20 years. Stretching east from the seaside end of Las Ramblas towards the modern cruise-ship dock, these days the area offers waterside promenades and silky manmade beaches fringed with palm trees. Finish the day with a drink in a swish new café overlooking the Mediterranean or a traditional fisherman’s bar that looks as if it hasn’t changed in a hundred years.