New England's Finest

You could say that the New England city of Boston offers its visitors the best of both worlds – the old world and the new world, that is. Founded by English settlers in 1630, its twisting lanes, Georgian homes and brick pavements immediately make Europeans feel right at home – but this is also the area where the War of Independence began back in 1775, and where change and innovation have been an integral part of life ever since.

Modern buildings punctuate the skyline and the downtown district has now been transformed, thanks to a project nicknamed the Big Dig, which has seen a major highway removed and replaced by parks and other greenery. These join the city’s many open spaces, including Boston Common, one of the oldest and most historical parks in the country, and its neighbour, the more formal Public Garden, which is glorious in full bloom.

Water, too, provides a sense of space in this handsome, vibrant city, from the historic harbour to Charles River, a playground for sailing boats and rowers. Unusually for a city in North America, Boston is both walkable and boasts an excellent transport system, known as the ‘T’.

Not to be missed

For a painless way to start getting to grips with US history, and to get a feel for the city, walk the Freedom Trail – a two-and-a-half mile route that links up 16 significant sites. Pick up a leaflet at the visitor information centre on Boston Common (next to the Park Street T stop) then follow the red line on the pavement. Highlights include the gold-domed Massachusetts State House, which was built in 1798 and is new only in comparison to the 1713 Old State House – a reminder of British rule, from which statues of a lion and unicorn stare down. Further on, Faneuil Hall Marketplace (pronounced ‘Fan-yul’) is a fun mixture of shops and restaurants. Once the city’s fruit and vegetable market, its clever conversion served as inspiration for the revamp of London’s own Covent Garden.

Persist to the very end of the Trail, over the bridge to the Charlestown Navy Yard, to witness proof of New England’s seafaring tradition, in the form of the two-century-old USS Constitution – the oldest commissioned warship in the world that is still afloat.

The culture club

In Boston, you are never more than a few steps away from a world-class art gallery or museum. Must-sees include the massive Museum of Fine Arts (referred to locally as the MFA), with its collection of Impressionist paintings and Asian artworks, as well as its neighbour – the Isabella Stewart Gardner Museum. In the intimate atmosphere of this Venetian-style palazzo you will find works by Rembrandt, Rubens, Titian and more. For a behind-the-scenes look at Boston society, it has to be Beacon Hill and the Nichols House Museum on Mount Vernon Street. This 1804 townhouse preserves domestic life of the 19th and early 20th centuries, with its antiques and oil paintings.

As the aristocratic heart of the city, the Beacon Hill area of Boston is full of similar brick townhouses and, with the surrounding cobbled lanes and authentic gas lamps, it really does look like a ready-made set for a 19th-century costume drama. Don’t miss the photo opportunities on Acorn Street and Willow Street and be sure to stroll around posh Louisburg Square.

Loosen the purse strings

Boston is a shop till you drop sort of city, with plenty of variety to suit every budget. If you are splashing out, Boston’s answer to our Bond Street is Newbury Street – just as glamorous but broader and longer, so there are more chances to lighten your wallet. Contrast that with Filene’s Basement, on Washington Street, which claims to be the birthplace of the bargain and where prices really do drop right in front of your eyes.

Charles Street has plenty of boutiques and antiques shops, but if you prefer to browse somewhere that sells everything under one roof, head straight for one of the two stylish downtown malls. At Copley Place, you’ll find about 100 glittering stores, including high-end retailers such as Tiffany, Gucci and Louis Vuitton. And a short walk away, the Shops at Prudential Center has some 75 stores and restaurants, which sell and serve just about everything imaginable.

City of scholars

Cambridge, just across the Charles River, is often overlooked on a quick visit. Technically a separate city, but in reality part of Greater Boston, it is easy to get to from downtown: from South Station, Harvard is just six stops away on the T. Harvard Square is the heart of Cambridge, where buskers sing for their supper and outdoor chess games are played in front of the Au Bon Pain coffee shop.

The restaurants and shops in Cambridge range from quirky to posh; just take a stroll down Brattle Street, Church Street and along Massachusetts Avenue to get the full picture. Of course, being the home of the world-renowned Harvard University, you will be sharing your space with a high population of students. Meander around Harvard Yard (the centre of the campus) and you will be walking in the footsteps of the famous – from composer Leonard Bernstein and poet TS Eliot to Hollywood superstar Tommy Lee Jones, not to mention seven US presidents.

Time for a sundowner

If you enjoy bird’s-eye views, go to ‘the Pru’, and take the lift 700 feet (215m) up the Prudential Tower. From the Top of the Hub bar on the 52nd floor, the panorama of the city is breathtaking, particularly at sunset. Even if you don’t fancy a drink or a meal here, it is worth paying a visit to the Skywalk Observatory on the 50th floor; on a clear day, you can see for 80 miles. For many of Boston’s visitors, the bar to find is Cheers on Beacon Hill, the inspiration for the TV series of the same name. For a less touristy pub, walk to nearby Sevens Ale House on Charles Street instead and do as the locals do: order a locally brewed Harpoon beer.

This feature was first published in The Portunus Club Magazine and all information was checked at the time of its original publication.