Dubai

With streets dripping with gold, opulence cascading out of every hotel and some of the best nightlife and cuisine the Middle East has to offer, Dubai is where the Arab world meets the rest of the world head on.

More Las Vegas than Las Vegas and more Mumbai than Mumbai, Dubai is thinking big in a heady mix of money and searing heat. Already home to the world’s only self-styled seven-star hotel, as well as the largest indoor ski slope on earth, the city has a staggering US$100billion worth of projects either planned or currently under construction.

As a result, expect your senses to come under attack on arrival. Cranes and unfinished buildings scatter the skyline as proof that this is the world’s fastest growing city. Porsches and Ferraris cruise through the streets and the Middle East’s rich and beautiful toast their own good fortune in the hundreds of bars and restaurants. Let the good times roll.

To see the best of Dubai, be prepared to hop in and out of taxis because the city is sprawling and essentially has no centre.

THE LANDMARKS

Visiting Dubai without seeing the Burj Al Arab would be like going to Paris and not seeing the Eiffel Tower. The hotel, which juts out into the Persian Gulf on its own island, has become synonymous with the city. Resembling a billowing sail and standing at 321 metres, it is the world’s tallest hotel, offering visitors afternoon tea or drinks in seven-star surroundings (at a price, naturally). Be aware though that there is a strict dress code and demand is high, so it’s best to book your slot before you even arrive in Dubai. Nearby is the Madinat Jumeirah, which is a spectacular recreation of an ancient Arabian marketplace. Its picturesque souk is a warren of narrow alleyways crammed with stores stocking traditional souvenirs, such as the jambia (a curved Bedouin dagger).

SHOP 'TIL YOU DROP

With daytime temperatures in Dubai reaching 48°C in the summer, an air-conditioned mall culture has combined with a desire to make the city an international shopping destination. The result is an endless array of huge malls, each one a shopper’s paradise. For designer labels, Wafi City and the BurJuman Centre are a must, with the likes of Versace, Chanel and Donna Karan competing for your attention.

For something more traditional, visit the spice and gold souks, both situated on the Deira side of the creek. The small spice souk offers a glorious scent of a hundred different spices, and the gold souk is simply a sight to behold. Haggle away and enjoy the hubbub of the narrow streets. The most pleasant way to get there is on an abra (water taxi), which costs 50 fils (about 8p). Abra stations are situated not far from Dubai Museum.

CULTURAL QUARTER

With a limited heritage, Dubai is doing its best to promote a cultural side to the city. Dubai Museum is the best place to start and is situated in the Al Fahedi Fort, one of the city’s oldest buildings. It offers an overview of Dubai’s history and is not far from the restored Bastakiya quarter, which features traditional windtowers (buildings that utilise the wind to create air conditioning), galleries, museums, a café and courtyard houses.

Jumeirah Mosque is an impressive landmark and offers the opportunity to take a closer look at the UAE’s Islamic roots. Organised tours are held daily, at which it is considered polite for Westerners to dress conservatively. Also pop along to see skilled craftsmen who ply their trade building dhows (the traditional wooden trading boats) near Garhoud Bridge.

PICTURESQUE DINING

If there’s one thing Dubai is excellent at, it’s food. Every corner of the world has come to Dubai and they have brought their food with them. Even Gordon Ramsay has a restaurant here – Verre – which is situated in the Hilton Creek hotel and recently won the Time Out Dubai restaurant of the year award.

However, Arabic food is the cuisine that really shouldn’t be missed – and this usually means a trip to a Lebanese or Moroccan restaurant. Top of the pile is Al Nafoorah at the Emirates Towers, which has great authentic Lebanese cuisine and the added bonus of spectacular views if you’re lucky enough to get one of the terrace tables. If you would like some belly dancing thrown in, then Fakhreldine at the Movenpick Hotel is another delight and the menu is bursting with grilled meats, healthy houmous and tabouleh, and freshly cooked Arabic bread.

Off the beaten track, there are plenty of cheap Indian and Pakistani restaurants in areas such as Karama and Satwa. A meal for two can cost you as little as 20 dirhams (£3). Don’t expect ornate interiors – it’s plastic chairs all the way – but tuck into lentil dhal with keema nan and enjoy the best Pakistan has to offer on a shoestring. For the best in alfresco dining, head to Boardwalk at the Creek Golf Club, where you can sit on the wooden platform that juts into the creek and enjoy unparalleled views of the Deira skyline.