Head inland, through heavily-scented pine woods, and you will find tiny villages like Sokraki where only Greek is spoken and time appears to have stood still. And the capital, Corfu Town, is Greece's largest 'living' medieval town home to cobblestone streets and alleyways, historic buildings, statues and fountains. The stand-out is the Venetian-built Old Fortress, now a UNESCO World Heritage site. But do find time to pause for a drink or lunch at one of the cafes along the French-style Liston Arcade and Esplanade. For the best beaches, head for Paleokastritsa, Glyfada or, if it is history you want, head for Gastouri to visit the lavish 19th century Achillion Palace.