Along the rocky cliff face along the Tyrrhenian Sea is the lively city of Salerno, its white-washed buildings piled higgledy-piggledy on top of each other, looking almost ready to topple into the sea. Yet this preserved Italian city has survived earthquakes, plagues and world war bombings. These knocks bring bags of character to the tiny passageways and hidden corners of the Historic Old Town, where trattorias serving fresh seafood and pasta e fagioli sit happily alongside trendy neon-lit bars. Admire the baroque paintings and frescos painted on the ceiling of the 11th century Duomo of Salerno, resting place of apostle Saint Matthew, then climb the staggering 300 metres up to the medieval Arechi Castle for spectacular views across the bay. Back at sea level feel the gentle breeze and soak up the dappled sunshine as you stroll along the Lungomare, a five-mile palm-lined promenade which skirts the seafront, perfect for Riviera-style people watching.