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Find your island paradise in Tortola. The British Virgin Islands gem offers relaxation, exploration and the warmest of welcomes, as we find out with local guide, Cumba Smith.
With around 110 beaches in the British Virgin Islands, Tortola has its fair share of beauties: 90% boast pristine white sand and abundant coral for snorkelling. ‘All our beaches are unique in their own way and they’re all free for visitors to explore,’ says Cumba. ‘My favourites on Tortola are Cane Garden Bay, which is where locals go to relax and swim after work; Long Beach on Beef Island, which is spectacular; and Apple Bay, where it’s a pleasure to watch the surfers having fun. And you must visit the famous Baths on Virgin Gorda. It’s like a Jurassic Park experience without the dinosaurs – huge boulders the size of two-storey buildings on the beach… It’s so beautiful.’
Hop aboard an open safari-style bus and feel the breeze on your face as you set off to explore this idyllic island. Admire the lush countryside and pass by colourful villages such as Belle Vue and Long Trench before you drive down to the coast. At Cane Garden Bay, a sweeping, sheltered beach on the north shore, you’ll have a little time to spend at your leisure.
Tortola is proud of its high-quality cuisine with everything from local street-food eats to shoreside fine dining. ‘Back in the day, we’d cook on a coal pot,’ says Cumba. ‘At D’Coal Pot restaurant in Carrot Bay, you can enjoy food cooked this traditional way. It takes more time but it’s tastier. Our fish is amazing: you’ve got to experience our national dish fish and fungi, which is a type of cornmeal made with butter and okra.’
Cumba also recommends the famous Painkiller cocktail. It’s made with pineapple, orange juice, Coco Lopez (cream of coconut) and rum, topped with a little grated nutmeg and a cherry.
‘It’s numbered from one to nine. The higher the number, the more alcohol is in the drink. You’ll get a good one at Pusser’s Landing, Soper’s Hole, and at Myett’s Bar at Cane Garden Bay. A Painkiller while chilling on the beach is a welcome to the island.’
Cumba SmithAway from the beaches, Tortola’s lush landscapes offer the best views and a more verdant experience among the island’s flora and fauna. Mount Sage National Park’s 12 walking trails feature tropical plants and birds, West Indies mahogany and white cedar trees, plus the highest peak in the US and British Virgin Islands, the 523m Mount Sage. ‘We’ve got amazing scenery,’ says Cumba. ‘From up high you can see over to Jost Van Dyke, the Tobagos, Sandy Cay and St Thomas. Driving around, taking in all the views and scenery makes me excited every day.’
One of the best ways to take in the beauty of Tortola and the BVI is by boat: the archipelago comprises 50 islands, cays, rocky formations and islets, from more developed tourist destinations to secluded beaches and coastal snorkel spots. Smuggler’s Cove on Tortola is perfect for snorkelling novices with its rich marine life and shallow, crystal-clear waters. Brewer’s Bay (north-east of Cane Garden Bay) is another underwater wonderland. For adventures on and below the water, take a boat trip out to Treasure Point Caves. If you like a little luxury with your sailings, go upscale with an island escape where you’ll feast on locally caught lobster.
Marvel at the picturesque coastal views on the boat ride over to Jost Van Dyke, the smallest of the four main British Virgin Islands and a place renowned for its incredible beaches. White Bay is your destination and here you’ll have free time to spend at your leisure. Take a walk on the floury sand, have a swim in the warm, sapphire water of the Caribbean Sea, or simply chill out on your lounger and read your holiday book. Feeling peckish? Pop into the Oceans Seven beach bar and order a light snack along with a refreshing soft drink – best enjoyed while soaking up the stunning views out to sea.
For a real taste of Tortola’s heritage, visit the quaint Callwood Rum Distillery, which has been producing rum for more than 200 years and is one of the Caribbean’s oldest rum distilleries. ‘You’ll see some history here and get to try the local sugar-cane rum,’ says Cumba. ‘The best rum has been aged for 10 years. It takes the colour of the oak barrel and has a great smooth flavour.’
Elsewhere, the Maritime Museum shines a spotlight on the BVI’s seafaring and boat-building traditions (you’ll never tire of ogling at the sleek yachts in Tortola’s bays and marinas), while it’s worth calling at the North Shore Shell Museum, a curious shack-style emporium crammed with shells and painted signs. Craft Alive Village is a more organised cultural hub. The enclave of colourful cottages in Road Town has become a focal point for arts and crafts, with artisan souvenirs made by locals, as well as an artist’s studio where artistic ambassador Joseph Hodge will welcome you and happily discuss the inspiration behind his bold watercolours and acrylics.
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